The Magic of Maguelone

Maguelone is a magical place, that I hold dear. A tiny volcanic island on the edge of the Mediterranean surrounded by lagoons, and the canal Rhône Sète, which runs close by. On top of a rise lies an ancient cathedral . This is surrounded by a large park and extensive vineyards, whilst a tiny road runs close by connecting the canal to the sea. This road is forbidden to motorised traffic. It runs alongside lagoons that are teeming with wild life, and enjoys extensive views over the mountains to the north. The nearest civilisation is at Villeneuve les Maguelones , which lies over the moving canal footbridge, and a further drive away along a narrow spit of land. I guarantee, that amidst all this beauty , you will not see one iota of human despoilation. But how can that be, for the enormous agglomeration of Montpellier is not too far away, as well as large seaside resorts like Frontignan and Palavas? The answer lies in its geography , for this is an area of salt marsh and water, that is not ideal for development. What's more it has been protected over the centuries by its owners, the Catholic church, and in the latter part of the 19th Century, the historian Frédéric Fabrègues who dedicated himself to research and restoration of the cathedral. It is thanks to his son that it was handed on to the Diocese of Montpellier in 1949. It is now run by 'Les Compagnons de Maguelone' who offer protected employment to adults with learning difficulties in its restaurant, oyster beds, and vineyards. It remains a very special place.

Every day throughout the summer crowds of people come to visit this lovely spot. The Montpellier agglomeration offers the services of a free 'petit train' to take visitors from the canal to the coast, where many spend the day. Others stop off at the Cathedral to explore or visit the restaurant, where one may sample the Domaine's own locally produced wine, and superbly fresh oysters. . Many more people undertake this short journey on foot, or bicycle, whilst some may approach by car from Palavas. But beyond a certain point, all traffic, bar le petit train , is forbidden. What's not to like! This is such a happy place, where one can forget noise and traffic. For the short time one is here, it almost feels as though the world is at peace.

But this place becomes even more magical when the canal bridge stops functioning , and all the happy crowds have gone. Then we are left to enjoy our peaceful mooring on the canal. That is the best time to enjoy an evening stroll and watch out for flamingos, egrets or the occasional heron. Most of all I like to watch the delicate black winged stilt, as graceful as a ballerina, which has just flown in from Africa to nest amongst these salt marshes. Then, when we return to our boat, we may enjoy the sight of a graceful tern diving for a fish, or a swallow skimming the water. Finally, as the sun sinks, we can enjoy the magnificent sunset. Thank you to the keepers of Maguelone, who have preserved this as such a special place.

A Magical Maguelone Sunset.