The Heights of Perfection.

Our journey home.

BUILDINGS AND ARCHITECTURE

5/26/20254 min read

Forget the golden towers of Donald Trump. If you wish to see the heights that human beings can achieve, then turn to bridges and cathedrals. On our long journey back home over the past two days , we were treated to fine examples on both sides of the English Channel.

Our two day journey took us across three major rivers. The Severn Estuary divides England and Wales, and is spanned by two major bridges. The first, a suspension bridge was completed in 1966 and once carried the M4 major motorway link. Thirty years later a new cable stay bridge was completed, and the motorway was diverted this way. This bridge is known as The Prince of Wales Bridge, although I don't believe that any Royal personage had a hand in the construction. A toll was charged when crossing into Wales, although not the other way. This charge has now been removed. However, I well remember that it was once possible to avoid this charge altogether by crossing into Wales via the head of the estuary, and returning along the M4. for free!

The Prince of Wales Bridge
The Prince of Wales Bridge

As you approach the thick cables, they seem to rise in the air like an enormous fan.

Bridges

Our drive took us close to Paris, but we crossed the River Seine further north at Rouen. It was early morning and barely light . As we approached this bridge, it almost felt as if I was dreaming, for it looked like a giant puppet master towering above us , holding the strings. It was unlike any bridge that I have ever seen before. Completed in 2008, this vertical lifting bridge, with its butterfly pulley lifting system , had to be tall enough to allow for the five yearly visit from the 'Armada.' This is a world renowned event , in which tall masted ships visit Rouen and need to access the harbour. At 86 metres high, this is probably the tallest lifting bridge in the World and is second only to Rouen's Cathedral in height.

The Gustave Flaubert lifting Bridge
The Gustave Flaubert lifting Bridge
The Armada, five yearly event at Rouen.
The Armada, five yearly event at Rouen.

Our onward journey was long, but any feelings of tiredness lifted as we approached Millau, where the deep limestone cliffs of the Gorges du Tarn are spanned by the magnificent Millau Suspension Bridge. I have written about this bridge in a previous blog, but I cannot sing its praises too much, as it soars between the cliffs like a gracious sailing schooner. It is a tribute to Anglo French cooperation between its French engineers, and the British architect, Norman Foster.

Nearly home.... the bridge at Millau
Nearly home.... the bridge at Millau

Mankind has long aspired to build ever higher, and whenever we pass close to a cathedral, I always wish to stop and admire. Fortunately we were able to break our journey at Winchester in England, where we explored the old streets of this gracious town, and the gardens and precincts of the famous Winchester Cathedral. Sadly it had already closed to visitors that day, but nonetheless we were able to admire this beautiful building, begun in the eleventh century, and which took over four hundred years to construct. It not only towers above us, but it is the longest medieval Cathedral in the world.

Entrance to Winchester Cathedral, England
Entrance to Winchester Cathedral, England

Cathedrals

After crossing the English Channel overnight, we set off for our long drive through France at four-thirty in the morning. If all went well, we would be able to break our journey at Bourges, which was about half way home. I recalled our last visit there nearly twenty years ago , and longed to see its wonderful Cathedral once more. Fortunately we were able to stop, and I was not disappointed. This is the most beautiful and awe inspiring Cathedral I have ever seen. It reaches dizzying heights, and is filled with beautiful light. We stood and marvelled for a long time at the enormous skills and dedication that such a historic and beautiful construction must require.

Bourges Cathedral.
Bourges Cathedral.
The exterior of Bourges Cathedral
The exterior of Bourges Cathedral

I could visit Bourges Cathedral a hundred times, and never tire. Perhaps it is worth noting that entry to religious buildings is always free in France (although certain features like climbing a tower, or visiting a church's collection of treasures may be charged for.)This is no longer the case in Britain. Had we been able to visit the interior of Winchester Cathedral in England, we would have had to pay £14 per person, and in some places it can cost even more. This saddens me. When I was a student in Durham, I could visit the cathedral for free whenever I wished. It would now seem that paying tourists are preferable. Yes, these buildings do need support for their expensive upkeep, but there are other options . In France the state adopts responsibility for the upkeep of all 87 of its cathedrals, and these costs form a part of our taxes. Moreover there is a strongly upheld conviction that every man and woman should be welcomed into churches and cathedrals unconditionally, regardless of their religious beliefs or financial means. After the terrible fire at Notre Dame Cathedral however, the cost of potential restoration was so steep that an international effort had to be made to help raise funds. In all, the restoration cost over 700 million Euro. The results, I am told, are out of this world. I shall certainly try to visit this, and hope to report back in a future blog.

Notre Dame Cathedral, Paris
Notre Dame Cathedral, Paris