The Hamlet that time forgot
... until it woke up for Christmas
FLORA AND FAUNA AND THE FOREST WORLD
Joan
12/23/20235 min read
You wouldn't visit Paris to get away from it all. After all, the buzz of busy restaurants, elegant shops on the Champs Elysée, and river traffic on the Seine are a large part of the attraction. But Paris isn't France, and much of ' La France Profonde' consists of vast tracks of land where you hardly see another soul. Last week we made a thirty minute drive to visit some friends. The journey took us through varied landscape, from our own densely wooded river valley, over the barren causses, and then down a precipitous winding road that leads to the bottom of a deep gorge. During the whole thirty minute drive we did not pass a single car. For me, this special feeling that the countryside is ours alone to enjoy, is what I most love about France. The over-all population density in this country is a mere 104 people to a square kilometre. Compare that to the population density of the U.K. which is over 270 people per square km.
Our village of St Etienne de Gourgas is made up of a number of hamlets, and in some ways that it is to its detriment. Each hamlet has its charm, but alas, the village has no heart. The Route Royale, once a main arterial road leading from Paris(as described in an earlier blog ) cuts it in half. But take the road that leads from there to the very end of the world, and stand beneath the massive cliff face of the Cirque du Bout du Monde, and you will appreciate why I Iove this part of France so much. We walk here two or three times a week, to enjoy the cliffs, and the abundant water that gushes from underground sources deep in the cliffs in the form of streams and waterfalls. And what's more, we come to enjoy the peace and quiet. For in spite of its beauty, this gorgeous hamlet feels as if it has been totally forgotten. It is certainly not listed in any tourist itinerary. I reckon that such a village in the U.K. would have become overrun with tourists, cafés and gift shops. If you should ever visit, I hope you will keep our favourite hamlet a secret too.
Of course it is not always so. There are times when Gourgas does come alive with extra visitors. Sometimes one might see a group of hikers arriving back at the small riverside car park after walking the corniche that clings to the edge of the cliffs, or a spot couple of hang gliders who have launched themselves from the very top, to land in the field below. Last Sunday we were taken aback by an unusually large number of vans and cars parked alongside the road. When I noticed a gathering of people in the field immediately below the cliffs, bending over large sheets of coloured silk , I realised that this must be a convention of hang gliders. Sure enough when I looked up towards the cliffs , I could see at least half a dozen more hang gliders enjoying the thermal currents, while others were ending their flight and drifting in towards the field, folding their wings like giant silken herons. As they drew close to the ground they would drop their legs and come to a running halt. Afterwards comes the folding, and the packing of equipment into enormous black rucksacks. Normally everyone you pass in Gourgas will share a greeting , but this group of hang gliders were too preoccupied with their tasks. But they are welcome in their numbers nonetheless, for their sport is a gentle one . It not only respects this peaceful village, but it is non- polluting . And what's more, they offer us an entrancing display .
Our village normally holds communal events at 'The Stade', where our enterprising mayor has recently added trees and a children's play park. It is here that we will celebrate the quatorze juillet . But on one occasion local growers organised a meal for villagers at Gourgas . This event was called 'Locavor' because it consisted almost entirely of products from our own village. Fruit sorbets and salads, goats cheeses, wild boar paté, olives and jus de raisin were all part of the fare and tables were set with a wonderful view of the cliffs. I had hoped that this would be repeated the following year, but alas Covid intervened. But last week a new social event was held in this tiny hamlet when villagers gathered around the fountain as darkness approached, in order to celebrate Christmas. It had been organised by a couple who are new arrivals in Gourgas. As we belong to another part of the village, we felt lucky to have been invited. Festive lights had been strung up, and fires had been lit in large logs to cheer up the proceedings (known as bûches suedoise.) A large tea urn took centre stage. But this was no English garden party ,serving P.G. tips. The drink on offer was a delicious vin chaud; hot and spicey. We added our contribution of food to the table and were regaled with cookies and pain d'épices. Let us hope that this festive event was the precursor of many more.
