Pulling out all the stops

Last week I wandered into Lodève Cathedral while I was waiting for B. This a fine Gothic cathedral with a large open nave , flooded with light from the spectacular stained polygonal stained glass windows at one end. I love to come here from time to time , perhaps to wander in the simple cloisters , or just to let sink in that feeling of history and connection with the past.

This crystal chandelier was given to a local business man by the British Queen Victoria, in recognition of a France/Britain trade agreement. On his death, his sister donated the chandelier to the Cathedral.

When we first arrived in Lodève in 2002, we learned that the magnificent organ had recently been restored , and although we have attended a couple of concerts in Lodève over the years, we have never heard this played. It is a sad fact that we always headed to the city of Montpellier for concerts, not realising what we were missing in our own home town. But that will change, for as I entered the Cathedral through its magnificent porch I spotted a notice advertising a series of concerts. These have been organised by 'The Friends of Lodève Organs,' and one recital was to take place that very Saturday morning. We decided to go along.

The Cathedral was already full when we arrived for the concert. I was surprised to see that the pews had been reversed, and were now facing away from the altar, and towards the magnificent organ at the opposite end, with the rose window above. We took our seats.

I noticed that a film screen had been erected beneath the organ, and was a little puzzled. Soon, all would be revealed.

The organist appeared on the balcony at the base of the magnificent organ pipes, to address his audience. He was accompanied by an assistant. Afterwards, they disappeared behind the pipes, but they were not out of sight for long , as they suddenly appeared on the screen before us. The concert was about to begin.

At times the organist's assistant appeared , busily opening and closing the stops, and turning the sheets of music when necessary. This pipe organ was built in 1754 by Jean François Lépine, remodelled in 1882, and restored in 2001 by the 'Manufacture de Grandes Orgues de Lodève.' It has 36 stops, three keyboards and a set of foot pedals. It has been classified as a historic monument.

The concert began with music by Buxtehüde , then progressed to a piece by a modern American composer, followed by two movements from a work which had been composed by the organist, Jean-Christophe Souberbielle himself. Indeed, as he told us, this was its premiere. Some passages in the various pieces were moving , but during others I began to feel the unforgiving hardness of the pew at my back. The organ sounded magnificent, but what I really longed to hear was some music by Bach. At last, the final piece was announced. It was to be Bach's Toccata and Fugue in D minor. As the sound of the organ swelled, so did my heart. The assistant was rushing around on the periphery. By the time the finale arrived, he seemed to have pulled out all the stops and music filled every last corner of this magnificent Cathedral. It felt utterly sublime.