Mixing the Old with the New.

This past weekend we had the good fortune to appreciate two of the finest old buildings in Sète. We arrived there on Friday in order to attend a concert at the beautiful Theatre Molière. As this lies no more than a couple of minutes walk from our flat, we had been scouring the eclectic programme for something that we might enjoy. What a treat not to have to drive for an hour into the city of Montpellier, to enjoy a concert. Better still, at the end of a long evening, we could just fall into bed. Such luxury. This concert was to be a night of Spanish music, performed by the National Orchestra of France. Rodrigo's Concerto d'Aranjuez, with its classical guitar soloist, is a particular favourite of ours. The stage was all set for an enjoyable, stress free evening. The audience gathered, and the musicians entered the stage, ready to welcome the guest conductor, Yutaka Sado, who normally conducts the New Japan Philharmonic Orchestra..

The music was sublime, from the rich tones of this accomplished orchestra, to the infectious enthusiasm of the conductor. As for the young solo guitarist, Thibaud Garcia, his eight long fingers and one thumb seemed to fly over the strings like an elegant nine legged spider. Of course, this whole evening was enhanced by our beautiful surroundings, from the sparkling chandeliers and ornate gold fretwork, to the magnificent frescoes. This is indeed , an important part of Sète's heritage.

In the interval we wandered around the beautiful foyer, where they also serve drinks.

As we left the theatre it was good to know that we didn't have far to go.

On Saturday night we decided to enjoy a meal at Le Grand Hotel, as a belated Christmas treat. This tall mid nineteenth century Hausmannian building is also part of Sète's heritage. The wonderful food was enhanced by the beautiful surroundings of the dining room with its tall ceiling , and elegant windows which overlook the Canal Royal.

But Wait...Just look!

What is that to the right of the hotel? Clearly there has been some infill in this fine street, which does not sit well alongside the more elegant buildings.

Looking around, I begin to see many rows of houses in the older part of Sète, where this juxtaposition of old and new exists. In many cases this appears quite harmonious , for all the buildings are at a similar level. Occasionally however, a building stands out in stark contrast to the rest.Who could possibly have given authority for these two monstrous blocks of flats which tower above all the rest? ...

...or these modern monstrosities, which stand adjacent to a late nineteenth building with its ornate facades and projecting glass balustrade?

All in all however, as Sète has expanded, it has managed largely to preserve the beauty of its oldest streets, made all the more harmonious by the network of canals that run alongside. Most of the large modern apartment buildings, built to house Sète's growing population, and the large influx of summer visitors have thankfully, been confined to the edges of town, or along the coast. Long may that continue , so that the 'Venice of Languedoc' can maintain its reputation.