Mad Dogs and Englishmen Part 2
A Guardian Angel comes to the Rescue
BOATINGCLIMATE CHANGE SEASONS
7/5/20255 min read
We had planned to arrive at Grau d'Agde before the heat of the day grew too fierce. But, by the time we arrived at the dock, for our boat to be lifted out , I was hot and exhausted. However, the remainder of the journey should be relatively straightforward. Pity we couldn't take the bateau bus/water taxi back to Agde, but we knew that the standard bus would take us right to the doors of the station , and moreover we should remain cool. As we turned up at the bus stop, the bus drew in...Perfect! Unfortunately, after the last passenger had disembarked, the bus driver stepped out too, and the doors closed behind her. There was to be a break before the next trip. With difficulty we found an area of shade, and kept an eye on the bus from a distance to make sure it didn't leave without us. Eventually, after an uncomfortably warm wait, we embarked. It felt lovely and cool so all was now well. To drive straight there along the banks of the River Hérault , the journey is a little under 2km. The bus, however took a different route. We went 'all around the houses' so to speak, leaving the pleasant residential area of Grau d'Agde behind. We were now passing a more industrial area with large modern retail units that seemed to go on for ever. The only modern building of worth that we saw was the lycéé/senior school. As is the tradition in France, such buildings are designed with style and care. The Lycéé Auguste Loubatières at Agde , which accommodates up to 1100 pupils, is no different. It was a sight for sore eyes. The journey seemed to go on and on for ever, and we grew restless, but about half an hour later, we had arrived directly in front of the station. On stepping out of the bus, the heat hit us. We had planned to take the train directly to Frontignan, from where we would walk back up the canal to find the car. But no way could we do that now, in this heat. We decided to leave the train early at Sète. From there we would take a short taxi ride to the canal.
As we entered the station concourse our faces fell. At every ticket outlet there was a long queue of people. I noticed a homeless man (sans domicile fixe) sitting on the hard floor, with his belongings beside him, and three large dogs sleeping alongside. Clearly, we weren't the only ones to be feeling the heat that day. Climate change is affecting us all in one way or another.He had obviously come here in search of refuge. But all went well. B. finally managed to purchase two tickets to Sète and our train was due to leave within five minutes.
We walked along the underpass towards the steps that led to our platform. People were sitting on every step, clearly seeking shade while they waited for the train. Fortunately it wouldn't be long. We sat down there too, for no one had thought to create shade on the platform, which was in full sun. We waited , and watched as more passengers appeared. Still, the train didn't arrive. Eventually, after about a ten minute wait, someone announced over the tannoy that the train was running fifteen minute late. When eventually it did pull into the station, hordes of people converged on the doors to enter. But these crowds barely thinned. The train was already full , with so many passengers standing in the doorway,that it was impossible to get on. In desperation, unable to take the heat, I pushed my way to the front, and somehow managed to squeeze into a space, standing alongside B. and shoulder to shoulder with so many others, we could barely breathe. Everyone looked grim. The doors slowly closed, but then reopened again. This happened a number of times , but still the train didn't leave. Eventually, an announcement asked people who were only travelling a far as Montpellier to leave , and wait for the next train. I made a quick judgement. Most of the passengers were much younger, and presumably more resilient than we were , so I remained stock still. This was proving to be the journey from hell, and we still hadn't left Agde. Slowly, the doors closed once more, and we proceeded. Fortunately this is just a short journey, which I normally enjoy. The train runs along a narrow spit of land between the étang and the coast. What had taken us nearly two hours to cross by boat earlier that day , took only ten minutes. by train. We had arrived at Sète. At this point , after the luxury of a short taxi ride, we would be back at the car. Or , so we hoped.
As we emerged into the dazzling sunlight, I looked up.. Ahead of me lay the tree lined avenue of avenue Victor Hugo, where we will soon have our pied de terre. Being so close to a station will be such a boon for these remote country dwellers! We looked around us for the taxi rank, and eventually saw it a little distance away. People were climbing into the first taxi, so we approached the driver behind. He left his car, seeming to understand wrongly that we were tourists seeking to travel to a nearby resort. When we explained where we actually wanted to travel, he rudely and abruptly turned away. It was hot. Tempers were short, and B. protested at this man's rudeness. It was a taxi rank wasn't it, and weren't we next in the queue? But the taxi driver became angry, and began to berate us. We turned to the driver in the taxi behind. Unlike the first man he seemed pleasant and kindly. He smiled and when we explained our destination he told us to hop in. Just as he opened a door for me, another taxi driver intervened. He was the friend of the first , and he was pushing some other passengers forward, telling our taxi driver not to take us. This was so distressing, I couldn't take much more. At this point, ignoring his colleague, our taxi driver, insisted that we climb in, and quickly drove off in his beautifully comfortable air conditioned car. Bliss! The taxi driver's name is Pascale . he had watched the altercation through his windscreen, and clearly didn't approve of that behaviour. This guardian angel had saved us from standing any longer in the heat, all. for the very fair and reasonable price of 17€. Very soon, we found ourselves back at base, and able to drive home. We arrived back exactly eleven hours later. What a relief!
