When we first came to live in France I neither liked oysters, nor knew anything about them. But one can't live in this area for long without becoming enthusiastic about this salty crustacean. Once the food of the poor in Britain, oysters are now an expensive luxury over there. But not in France where they are highly affordable, and traditionally bought in large wooden boxes for Christmas and New Year festivities. Moreover , if you should head for the Etang de Thau , particularly on a Sunday, you will see that French people flock to eat oysters as a special treat. Indeed, most French people will have their favourite variety of oyster , whether it be from the Etang de Thau, Arcachon in the west, or Cancale on the coast of Brittany. Every oyster has its own particular flavour apparently. They are usually swallowed raw, with a squeeze of lemon juice, or red wine and chopped shallots. Be sure to avoid being given this mixture in a bottle with a narrow funnel however! The wine soaked shallots are an integral part of the experience. Another favourite of mine are oysters gratinées. In our region the oyster is schucked, gently eased from its shell, replaced on a layer of buttery leeks, and then coated in cheese and grilled briefly. Heaven! Last week I discovered a pond of garlicky butter mixed with oyster juices in the bottom of my shells...perhaps even better!