All that Jazz

If you will forgive my pun, the setting for the Sète Jazz festival is amazing. It looks over the Mediterranean Sea ,where giant ferries plie the straits towards North Africa, and smaller pleasure craft head between the piers for shelter. Our friend M., a jazz aficionado, told us about this yearly event a long time ago and how one could take a free water taxi ride there, from the centre of town. Now that we are increasing our connections with Sète we decided to book tickets for some artists that we have long enjoyed. The first of these, whose concert we attended last Friday, was to be the American jazz and blues singer, Madelaine Peyrou. We took our friend's advice, and left our car in a large car park by the canal. From there we took the water taxi to the port along with lots of other concertgoers. The route took us through the centre of town and down the Maritime canal. This passes under five bridges which all open around the same time each day to allow boats to pass, while snarling up the traffic. The Pont Tivoli, a lifting bridge, was already open as we passed underneath, and I wondered what would happen later that evening as we returned. When closed, the bridge does seem very low.

It was clear from the crowds as we walked up the hill from the port , that the event would be crowded. It was a stifling hot evening, and the queues at the gate were long. But at least one could gaze out to sea as one waited to be admitted. After passing through a rather brutal security system, manned by black clad,private security guards, we eventually found a seat in the auditorium, though not without a struggle. The seats were hard and unforgiving, more like the stone tiers of Epidaurus , than a comfortable theatre. Even the outside auditorium at Domaine d'O in Montpellier manages to provide a plastic back support for everyone, as well as an allotted seat. Alas, not here! It was going to be a long uncomfortable evening, but at least the view was stunning, and the music , for sure, would be divine.

Unfortunately, at that point we became a little uneasy. By this time the arena was so full, there was standing room only. Then, from offstage, a voice boomed out, announcing the first act. It was to be singer, China Moses, and her band. But the amplification was so loud, it was almost unbearable. Surely someone would adjust this before the music began. The performers entered to rapturous applause: a lead singer, two electric guitarists, a drummer and a keyboard player (piano and electronic.) But the second they began to perform, we knew that we were in for an uncomfortable evening . The volume was utterly deafening and incredibly painful. Each instrumentalist seemed to be trying to outdo the other.After the first song B. stood up abruptly and left. He could bear it no longer. I followed. What could we do? We had come to see Madelaine Peyrou, and fervently hoped that this would be different. But would it be worth the agony in-between? Just then I spotted a small distributor on the wall.

Ear Plugs!

We returned to our seats, with soft green plastic earplugs carefully inserted . Would these help ? From then on the music continued at full decibel, only slightly muffled, but just about bearable. China Moses was undoubtedly talented at whipping up the crowd , and soon people were dancing and cheering in the aisles. We bore this all stoically, as we waited for the main act. But would Madelaine Peyrou turn down the volume , we wondered?

By now it was growing late. One or two small boats passed by below us, red lights to port, and green to starboard, as the lighthouse flashed intermittently ahead of them. Madelaine Peyrou came on stage . Hooray! Someone had turned down the amplifiers. This part of the concert was definitely going to be more enjoyable. A kind young lady sitting next to us alongside her mum had given us one each from the plentiful supply of cushions that they had brought along with them, so we settled in. Now this was going to be real music. The accompanying artists were talented, and what's more they moderated their playing to attune to each other. As for Madelaine Peyrou, whilst her sublime voice may have lost a little something over the years, she certainly made up for it with her personality. This was finally worth coming for.

As we made our way back to the port with the departing crowds, for the return boat journey,we felt extremely tired. When we reached The Pont du Tivoli , it did indeed look very low. It was a tight fit, but we passed underneath, and I didn't even have to duck. A concert like this had been completely beyond our experience. However, "beat 'em or join 'em," they say. We shall be going along to the Theatre de la Mer once again next Tuesday to listen to Salif Keta , 'The Golden Voice of Africa' from Mali. But surely, we think, this old and world renowned singer wouldn't dream of ruining his performance with bad amplification. I sincerely hope we are right and that this time, we won't need ear plugs! I shall let you know!